Roork's Farm Supply, Inc.

Roork's Wing Tips

Wing Tips are monthly insights, helpful tips, and other assorted tid-bits about the wonderful world of Birds. Wing Tips are written by: Marilyn Patterson

WING TIPS –18

           I am seeing a lot of frustrated people in the store lately.  No it’s not the heat, its squirrels!  They appear to be on a rampage.  They seem to possess the genius of Einstein and skill of Houdini when it comes to breaking into bird feeders.  Most people wouldn’t mind if they just ate a little feed but no, they have to destroy the feeders in the process.  No one wants to hurt the squirrels they just want their bird feeders left alone.  Here are some suggestions for dealing with this problem. Feed the squirrels far away from your bird feeders.  Place bird feeders at least twelve feet away from any object squirrels can use as a launching pad.  That means trees, roofs, railings etc.  Make all posts at least four feet high and baffle them so squirrels cannot climb them.  Four-inch PVC pipe makes a good post since they cannot dig their claws into it and cannot put their arms around it.  If you must put the feeders under trees baffle the top loosely so that squirrels will slip off if they jump.  Grease poles so that squirrels slide down them.  Finally, invest in feeders that are built to be squirrel resistant.

           Super Stop-A-Squirrel is a feeder built to close with the weight of a squirrel or large bird.  This model has the arms inside.  That keeps the squirrels from using their body as a counter-weight wedging the door open.  Customers report that this feeder is very effective but its small feeder area is uncomfortable for larger birds such as the Cardinal.

           Duncraft makes a Create-A-Haven.  This cage is designed to cover your existing flat-topped tube feeder.  The heavy wire keeps the squirrel from damaging the feeder but may allow him to steal some seed with his paws.

            Vari-Crafts makes a feeder called the Avian.  This is a large, 3 gallon capacity, feeder surrounded with wire that excludes large birds and squirrels.  It comes with its own pole.  While it does a good job with squirrel exclusion large thin-bodied birds such as Grackles can still reach the seed.  Small birds love it since they can actually enter the mesh to feed safely.

             All of the above solutions work with most squirrels.  Unfortunately there is always one that defies every attempt at excluding him.  You can always get a Hav-a-hart trap and relocate him miles away or you can teach him that feeders are dangerous places by setting up a Squirrel Stop Feeder.  This feeder is battery operated and delivers a shock when he touches the base and feed port.  Birds do not get shocked.  One or two times and he will be convinced that bird feed isn’t worth the pain.  The shocks are harmless, similar to underground fencing for dogs.


AMERICAN GOLDFINCH

           Of all the birds that show up at our feeders in summer, the Goldfinch is our favorite. Also known as the wild canary, this is the state bird of New Jersey. Many people are convinced that the Goldfinch migrates to the south in the winter and returns in the spring.  This is not true.  The Goldfinch merely changes color.  During the summer the male Goldfinch is easy to identify.  He is brilliant yellow and sports a black cap and black wings with a white stripe and a deeply notched tail. In the fall he will change completely; losing the yellow and black and assuming the females’ olive coloration.  Only his tail notch and wing bars will identify him.  If the winter is very severe he may move slightly south while his northern relatives take up residency in our area, therefore we are never without this tiny seed eating bird’s company.

           Watching the undulating flash of male Goldfinches chasing each other is one of my greatest summer pleasures.  They whirl and dive with such speed that it appears they are just having fun rather than establishing breeding territories.  Their territorial dances are even more special since they occur when most other birds are busy with more mundane tasks such as raising their second or third batch of young.

           Goldfinch breed much later than most other birds.  They do not have to rush since they are not going to migrate in the fall.  This lack of time pressure allows them to wait until there is ample natural food to feed their young.  They also like to use the down from the late blooming thistle plants to line their nests.  Goldfinches seldom have more than one batch of young per year as that is all their late starting date will allow.  Feeding Goldfinch in the summer gives them a reliable food source for their fledglings and may result in the production of a second brood.  Goldfinch are heavily parasitized by Cowbirds.  It is heartbreaking to see these small birds trying to feed babies twice their size.

           Goldfinch eagerly come to feeders filled with oil sunflower seeds or with thistle (Niger) seed.  If House Finches mob the more timid Goldfinch put up an upside down feeder.  The Goldfinch possesses the unique ability to feed upside down while the House Finch does not.  When you want to add variety to the Goldfinches’ diet, try substituting Finch Mix for Niger seed.  This mix contains Niger seed, small sunflower pieces, Millet, Canola Seed, and Canary Seed.  The Finch mixes are all fine enough to be fed in standard Niger Seed feeders.  If you leave seed heads on the Goldfinches’ favorite flowers such as; Coneflower, Zinnia, Cosmos and Black- Eyed Susan; they will thrash them for seeds all winter long.  If the untidy appearance bothers you, cut them leaving a long stem, bunch them and tie them to your feeders.  Either way the Goldfinch will thank you.

           I think we like feeding Goldfinch because their fall color change matches our feelings about the coming bleakness of winter while their spring plumage brightens with our anticipation of the coming warm season.  These changes remind us of the rhythm of the cycle of life.


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